Starting Point: National Trails Highway (old Route 66), 3 miles east of Fort Cady exit on I-40
Finishing Point: National Trails Highway (old Route 66), 2 miles west of Fort Cady exit on I-40
Total Mileage: 34.8 miles, plus 2.2-mile spur
Difficulty: Moderate (3 out of 10)

Special Attractions:

• Trail travels a vehicle corridor through the Rodman Mountains Wilderness
• Extensive petroglyphs on the edge of the Rodman Mountains Wilderness
• Lightly traveled trail offers remote desert experience
• Chance to see raptors – particularly prairie falcons and golden eagles
• Bagdad Cafe, setting of the movie of the same name

History:

Newberry Springs, located near the start and finish of this trail, was a town that relied on passing trade almost from its beginning. The Mojave Trail passed to the north of today’s settlement and was a trading route for Indians before it became a vehicle trail. For thousands of years, people traveled between the coastal and Colorado River tribes, exchanging various items of value. They used water from the Mojave River near Newberry Srpings, known in the mission days as Rio del los Animas (Spanish for “River of the Spirits”).

Suprise Tank Petroglyphs, in the Rodman Mountains, are estimated by archeologists to be more than 11,000 years old. The Vanyume Indians, members of the Serrano tribe, roamed this region in hunter-gatherer groups. Potential water points became more and more important for these people as the lush landscape became more arid. Their shamans attributed with creating the supernatural images found on the patina boulders at Surprise Tank.

The rugged Newberry Mountains north of Kane Wash also provided refuge for early inhabitants of the region. The Newberry and Schuilling Caves are two locations in the mountains that are the subjects of archaeological study.

The Mojave Trail saw even more traffic during the gold rush of 1849. Parties from Salt Lake City often got lost while taking shortcuts to the West Coast and were attacked by Indians when they broke into small groups. Sticking to the well-used trail was an emigrant party’s best bet.

Freight and mail companies also began to use the trail. Because of it’s good water supply, Newberry Springs was chosen as the site of Fort Cady. A horse- and camel-mounted cavalry unit was based there to protect travelers from attacking Paiute and Chemehuevi. By 1868, the last of the Indians were relocated to reservations. This opened the region to white settlers who catered to prospectors and travelers.

Calico, situated to the north, became quite important because it supplied mine workers with farm produce. The railroad construction of the 1880s took away much of the passing trade. Yet Newberry Springs was still important, supplying water for all the railroad tanks as far east as Essex. In the early days, the locality had been known simply as Water.

Prospectors were busy in the Rodman Mountains in the 1880s, as well as along Iron Ridge to the south of this trail. Names like Silver Bell, Silver Cliffs, Bessemer, and Tiptop Mines still appear on maps. Tiptip, now within the boundaries of the Marine Corps Air Ground Combat Center to the east of this trail, was originally a silver mine that went on to produce high grade copper in the late 1890s. The mine produced such good returns on its ore that, unlike many, the owners could afford to ship it around the globe to Swansea, Wales for reduction.

Highway construction was the next major event to hit Newberry Springs, and again, passing trade was the lifeline of the community. The Depression saw many people working and livng off the land. With its good water supply, Newberry Springs remained popular. The town also supplied moonshine whiskey to Los Angeles. After the Depression, local businesses thrived again as travelers along Route 66 filled their restaurants and stores. The gas rationing of World War II reduced the number of tourists along Route 66, but increased military activity made up for it. By the end of the war, travelers returned once again. Newberry, as it was known then, slowly grew up to support several local businesses, including a number of classic restaurants and motels. All seemed well again until construction of I-40 in the 1960s took passing trade away from Newberry Springs. The town’s population became too small to support the number of businesses, and many commercial buildings were boarded up, never to reopen. Though interest in Old Route 66 continues to grow, local establishments are slow to risk opening for fear of another crippling blow.

Bagdad Cafe, at the western end of this trail, was formerly known as Sidewinder Cafe. It was featured in Bagdad Cafe, an offbeat comedy about mismatched characters transforming a forgotten motel into a desert oasis. The name stuck, and the cafe still attracts quite a following.

Today, Newberry Springs residents enjoy quiet times. Many of the travelers along Route 66 are retired people driving RVs along the same route that some traveled decades ago to escape the dust bowls of the Midwest.

Trail Description:

The Rodmain Mountains Trail makes a pleasant excursion from the town of Barstow and passes through some spectacular and remote high desert scenery. The trail leaves I-40 at the Fort Cady exit, 5 miles east of Newberry Springs. It follows a pipeline road, crossing the bajada, to reach the start of the vehicle corridor that travels north-south through the Rodman Mountains Wilderness. The Rodman Mountains are a dramatic series of ridges and valleys, the result of earthquake activity many years ago. The area is composed of volcanic basalt and lava rock; a lave flow cuts through the region.

The vehicle corridor travels through the jagged rocks of Box Canyon. This is a good place to look for bighorn sheep that frequent the area. Other wildlife that can be seen includes raptors, which breed in the region. In particular, keep an eye out for prairie falcons and gold eagles.

Exiting the vehicle corridor, the trail travels along the northern edge of the Johnson Valley OHV Area. This popular open area covers a wide valley to the south. The Rodman Mountains route swings north, remaining on the southern edge of the wilderness area. Some spectacular petroglyphs can be found  a short distance from the trail. They are etched into the dark volcanic basalt above a small gully and are well worth the slight detour. To find them, park where indicated in the route directions and climb above the fence line to view the petroglyphs. There are many different patterns and animal shapes to be seen. The coordinates of the petroglyphs are GPS: N34° 40.40′ W116° 35.61′.

A second spur leads into the Rodman Mountains Area of Cricital Environmental Concern, where a small fenced area of desert pavement contains several small inaglios and rock patterns arranged on the flat surface. Curious hikers can find other petroglyphs in the region. Remember not to touch or disturb the petroglyphs in any way.

The route then joins wide, graded Camp Rock Road, which serves as the access road for the quarry. Mine trucks use this road at all times, so watch for fast-moving vehicles. A worthwhile spur from this section runs along a graded road up to communications towers. It is an easy drive up a wide shelf road to the towers. From the top there are far-reaching views to the south over Johnson Valley and to the north over the Mojave Valley.

The trail then swings north up Troy Road to complete the loop back to I-40. Troy Road is rough in places, and travels part of the way in a loose, gravelly wash. The scenery in this canyon is as rugged and spectacular as any in the region. For the most part, Troy Road is easy to navigate because it travels along the well-defined SV 183, the SV 183 detour, and a small graded road along a gas pipeline. However, a section of road immediately before it that drops down the final wash to the north, back to National Trails Highway, can be confusing. The route leaves the defined road and travels on a small, unmarked trail in the wash. Geography and landmarks in the wash can change after storms. This intersection comese at the junction of two canyons. Proceed north down the canyon toward the Mojave Valley. Do not go south into the other large canyon that can be seen at this point.

The trail finishes on National Trails Highway, 0.1 miles east of the famous Bagdad Cafe. This very friendly cafe is open seven days a week from 6 AM, and serves a hearty breakfast – just the thing before heading off on the trail.

Route Directions:

0.0 – From I-40, 5 miles east of Newberry Springs, take the Fort Cady exit and proceed to the south side of the freeway. Turn east on paved National Trails Highway (Old Route 66) and zero trip meter. Proceed east for 3 mies and then turn south on formed dirt trail sign-posted to Belangeri Ranch. Zero Trip meter. Trail follows alongside power poles.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 48.24′ W116° 33.39′

0.7 miles – track on left is Eagle Way Road

1.0 miles – track on right

1.6 miles – track on right and track on left at pipeline valves

1.9 miles – T-intersection with pipeline road
GPS Waypoint: N34° 46.54′ W116° 33.39′

2.3 miles – cross through wash

3.4 miles – Turn right up line of wash onto marked trail, OJ 295, suitable for 4WDs, ATVs and motorbikes. Zero trip meter.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 46.62′ W116° 31.75′

0.0 – continue south on OJ 295

1.0 miles – enter vehicle corridor. Rodman Mountains Wilderness is on either side of the trail. Remain on main trail.

2.4 miles – Enter Box Canyon

5.7 miles – Exit Box Canyon

7.6 miles – exit line of wash

8.3 miles – exit vehicle corridor through Rodman Mountains Wilderness

8.8 miles – 4-way intersection under major power lines. Track on left is Powerline Road. Track straight ahead enters Johnson Valley OHV Area and goes to Soggy Dry Lake. Zero trip meter and turn right onto Camp Road. There is a signpost at the intersection.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 39.41′ W116° 33.07′

0.0 – continue to the southwest along power lines.

0.5 miles – track on left goes into Johnson Valley OHV Area. Turn right onto formed trail, marked OJ 233, leaving power lines.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 39.25′ W116° 33.49′

1.2 miles – enter line of wash

2.7 miles – exit line of wash

2.8 miles – track on right goes 0.2 miles to large area of petroglyphs. Zero trip meter.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 40.25′ W116° 35.54′

0.0 – continue to the west.

0.8 miles – well-used track on right enters Rodman Mountains ACEC and travels 0.6 miles to fenced intaglios at coordinates GPS: N34° 40.48′ W116° 36.31′
GPS Waypoint: N34° 40.48′ W116° 36.49′

1.2 miles – track on right

1.9 miles – T-intersection with wide graded road. Track on right goes into active quarry. Zero trip meter.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 40.64′ W116° 37.26′

0.0 – continue to the south.

2.0 miles – track on left is spur trail to communications towers and a panoramic view to the north and south over Johnson Valley. Zero trip meter.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 39.57′ W116° 38.35′

Spur to Communications Towers
0.0 proceed to the southeast up small graded trail.

0.3 miles – enter line of wash

0.4 miles – track on right up side wash.

1.2 miles – exit line of wash and start to climb shelf road.

2.1 miles – communications tower on left. End of climb.

2.2 miles – spur ends at communications towers and viewpoint
GPS Waypoint: N34° 38.63′ W116° 37.62′

Continuation of main trail

0.0 – continue to the west

0.8 miles – road turn to graded dirt.

1.8 miles – track on right

2.3 miles – track on left and track on right to well
GPS Waypoint: N34° 39.84′ W116° 40.71′

2.9 miles – Track on left goes to Camp Rock Road and Anderson Dry Lake. Continue straight ahead, following sign to I-15. Turn right immediately past the sign onto unmarked trail.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 40.02′ W116° 41.36′

3.9 miles – Turn right onto SV 183 detour (Troy Road) at sign. Camp Rock Road is ahead and to the left. SV 183 detour also goes straight ahead. Zero trip meter.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 40.35′ W116° 42.39′

0.0 – continue to the north.

0.3 miles – track on right and track on left

0.4 miles – track on right and track on left.

1.0 miles – track on right

1.3 miles – track on right

1.5 miles – two tracks on right
GPS Waypoint: N34° 41.58′ W116° 41.68′

1.6 miles – two track on left.

1.9 miles – well-used track on right. Enter down wash.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 41.90′ W116° 41.77′

4.5 miles – turn righ at 4-way intersection onto graded road alongside gas pipeline, following the marker for SV 183. Zero trip meter.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 44.04′ W116° 41.95′

0.0 – continue to the northeast, leaving the wash, along graded road down main canyon.

0.2 miles – cross through wash. graded road on left down wash.

0.4 miles – cross through wash.

0.5 miles – turn left onto unmarked graded road, leaving pipeline road.

0.7 miles – T-intersection. Track on left goes to Kane Springs
GPS Waypoint: N34° 44.35′ W116° 41.39′

1.5 miles – graded road on right

1.7 miles – enter line of wash

1.9 miles – pass through fence line

2.1 miles – turn left onto small formed trail at 4-way intersection, leaving graded road and zero trip meter. Track on left can be easily missed in this direction because of washout realignment.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 44.80′ W116° 39.95′

0.0 – continue to the north

0.1 miles – turn right at T-intersection in wash and travel down wash. This intersection is also easy to miss.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 44.88′ W116° 39.98′

0.3 miles – Exit canyon, Remain in wash

1.0 miles – Trail travels alongside lava flow

1.3 miles – exit line of wash

2.9 miles – cross through wash. Track on right in wash.

3.1 miles – enter wash

3.2 miles – exit wash and continue straight ahead on graded road that joins from the left.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 47.35′ W116° 39.01′

4.5 miles – graded road on right. Road is now paved.

5.4 miles – trail ends on National Trails Highway (old Route 66). Turn right to pass Bagdad Cafe (0.1 miles down the road on the left) and to exit to I-40; turn left for Newberry Springs.
GPS Waypoint: N34° 49.19′ W116° 38.66′

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